2020+ Kawasaki Z H2 Stage1 w/ Diagnostic Tool

The 2020+ Kawasaki Z H2 is an interesting bike. It shares a lot of similarities with it’s supercharged brother, the H2. It also has quite a few differences from the H2. Put simply, the Z H2 is the biggest departure from the H2 family we’ve seen yet. In the engine alone the Z H2 has more compression, a different cylinder head configuration, less boost, among other changes from the H2 and H2R

When we see how other people tune the H2 engines, it’s extremely aggressive and more like how you would tune a N/A liter bike. From a lot of data logging and testing we have found the limits of the motor to be quite different from its H2 counterpart. It’s safe to say the joke that H2 motors aren’t reliable isn’t due to the engine itself, but rather how it’s tuned. With the differences in the engine between the H2 and the Z H2, using the same tuning theory between the two can result in catastrophic engine failure.

Many H2 engine failures can be attributed to too much ignition timing and too much RPM in tuning. While the numbers will be lower than its H2 counterpart, the Z H2 with our tuning will be reliable and consistent. When you think about it, the Z H2 is a non-intercooled engine and must be tuned more delicately to ensure a reliable and repeatable result. Of course, customers with modifications such as an intercoolers or headwork can accommodate different tuning. Ultimately we are here to utilize this amazing engine but will not sacrifice reliability for an extra 10-20WHP. Reliable performance solutions is what we do and we spend many hours with a lot of data logging equipment to ensure that outcome.

 WHAT’S INCLUDED IN OUR STAGE 1 FLASH

• Fueling Adjusted (per gear)
• Ignition Adjusted (per gear)
• Throttle Derestricted (per gear)
• Lower Fan-On Temp
• Increased RPM Limiter
• Removed Top Speed Limiter
• Exhaust Valve Management

THE DETAILS

• FUELING –  With custom tuning we can target better AFR (air/fuel ratio) plots to enhance not only racing performance, but also cruising and partial throttle inputs.
• IGNITION – Optimized to make the most power while still being safe and reliable.
• THROTTLE DERESTRICTION – Giving you the ability to utilize 100% of the throttle is paramount in track situations where you need all the power you can get on demand. The factory file has a “dead spot” on the top end that kills the bikes power curve when it should be making the most. This also means any kind of straight line acceleration also suffers. We remove these factory restrictions to ensure a smooth and predictable throttle, all the way to redline.
• LOWER FAN-ON TEMP – Let’s face it, this bike rides a little on the hot side. To help not only the riders enjoyment but also keep the engine slightly cooler, we’ve lowered the fan-on temps.
• INCREASED RPM LIMITER (at customer request) – The stock RPM limiter is set to 12,700 RPM. We have been testing 13,200 RPM with zero negative side effects. We set the RPM limiter for 13,200 RPM in all gears. This helps you stay in the powerband longer and reduces the need to shift at the track.
• INCREASED TOP SPEED LIMITER – Removed so you can let the bike run free in any track environment.
• EXHAUST VALVE MANAGEMENT – Improved and optimized for peak performance and sound.

PLEASE NOTE

• YOUR BIKE MUST HAVE THIS ECU NUMBER: (21175-1568, 21175-1586, 21175-1587, 21175-1626,21175-1604).
• To find this number either look at the back of the ECU (in nose of bike), or call your local Kawasaki dealer and ask them what your ECU part number is based on your VIN number. The numbers we listed apply to all US bikes and a Euro version. If your bike has a different ECU number EMAIL US BEFORE PURCHASE. Your ECU number can be found on the ECU itself in the tail of the bike. We found the ECU number we listed is almost all 2020+ Z H2’s. We will be working to add more and will update this page when we do.
• Due to the sensitive nature of the Z H2’s AFR (air/fuel ratio) and the platforms almost endless aftermarket options, the file we deliver you may need the fueling to be adjusted to meet your bikes individual needs for racing. Pending CARB approval. In this instance we recommend a piggyback fuel controller and dyno time, or an “auto-tuner” that can aid you in correcting your fuel maps (if needed).
• Our tuning only applies to ONE MODE. This mode will be the highest power mode. Please note that all other modes will run like stock and will not be derestricted. We have done this at the request of the community in general.

IMPORTANT!

It is crucial you check your oil level carefully after each oil change. If you add too much oil (above factory recommended ‘high’) “windage” may occur. This is when the crankshaft, rotating at a high RPM will churn the oil to the point where small air particles are trapped in the oil. This is bad for many reason. The main reason this is bad for the Z H2 is because the crankcase is under pressure and has a very high tendency to push this aerated oil to the airbox and supercharger. If the oil gets to the supercharger, it will start to feed the oil to the combustion chamber to burn. If this happens the octane rating of the fuel, now mixed with oil, lowers significantly and causes massive detonation. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE YOUR OIL IS AT A PROPER LEVEL BEFORE RIDING.

DYNO PROVEN

Yes, you’re reading that right. At peak RPM you’re gaining OVER 100whp FROM JUST A FLASH! The gains can be seen and felt across the entire RPM range. Even down low where you think the power is similar, the bike takes off better and feels more lively. Up top is were we really see our tuning shine! After we remove the factory throttle limits we are left with a lot more power to play with and tune. Increasing peak RPM safely also helps ensure a larger powerband, while still reliable and consistent.  The Stage 1 product is designed with a lower ignition and lower redline for those who want a no compromise clean solution, not max power.

This Z H2 came in with a slip on exhaust and filter. All testing done with same mods and all testing performed on 93 pump gas, same day.

RED – Factory Tuning: 180whp / 95wtq
BLUE – BT Moto Flash: 233whp / 104wtq

EURO TUNING

Independently verified at Motobull in the UK, you can see our Stage 1 and Stage 2 in action. You can see our Euro version of the flash makes the same numbers as our US version of the flash.

RED – BT Moto Flash STAGE 1: 227whp / 104wtq
BLUE – BT Moto Flash STAGE 2: 252whp / 108wtq
ORANGE – Stock Baseline: 195whp / 99wtq

THE BT MOTO HANDHELD TUNER

WHAT IS A HANDHELD TUNER AND WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF HAVING ONE?

Thoroughly tested by our own engineers, not just for its function but also durability.  We purposefully dropped this thing about 100 times just to make sure if you accidentally dropped it, it would still be a usable device.

So why buy it when you can just send in your ECU for flashing and spend less? Let’s see the breakdown.

NO DOWNTIME – No need to send in your ECU or remove it from your bike at all.  You order the handheld, it get’s delivered to you, you flash your bike.  You never miss a day of riding and no effort removing the ECU.

STORE MULTIPLE MAPS – When you send in your ECU, you only get one map.  You might be thinking, “why would I need more than one map?”.  Storing multiple maps means you’re able to flash for different fuels.  If you’re a serious track competitor, we can work with you to get you different mapping for different tracks.  If, for example, you’re add an exhaust to your stock bike, we can email you a file that takes the new exhaust into account with the changes you need to optimize your bike’s new modifications.

GO BACK TO STOCK ANYTIME – Not only can you store multiple race maps, you can also flash the original, stock file back into the bike at any time and for any reason.

***DISCLAIMER: FOR CLOSED COURSE COMPETITION USE ONLY. PENDING CARB APPROVAL. NOT INTENDED FOR STREET USE***